Keel panel in the frames and frame one is set at 325mm aft of the panel’s forward edge.
All measurements are now taken from the forward edge of frame one, so screw in the metal builders tape at that spot.
These images show measurement from the forward edge of frame one to the centre of each other frame to set the correct distance for each frame.
To check each frame is at 90 degrees to the hull the measurement is taken to the water line etched by ATL onto each frame
Placing the keel panel squares the frames up fairly well and very well when the measurements are correct. There is a little space either side of the keel to allow for the severe angle and different thickness’ of panels,the bilge panels at 13mm and 16mm for the keel. The keel therefore needs to be accurately centred.
Each frame needs to be screwed in on measurement. We used one screw centred to help adjust the frame lateraly then one on each side to lock them together. We try to position the screws so we can tape past them not over or they would be a tad difficult to remove latter in fact the centre one is screwed in all the way and the two outers sit slightly proud.
Now that the frames are accurately spaced along and perpendicular to the keel, they need to be leveled to the water line. We don’t have to fuss with this prior as our paved floor is quite accurate to 2mm over the 15metres with individual pavers slightly up or down.
Again we use the water line marked on each frame by ATL and this beaut little device that purchased from a hardware store, its basically a short builders level with a strong laser pointer mouted in one end. This is mounted on a three way leveling device in turn mounted on a tripod.
We have used it to set up the starboard hull and check its water line when finishing the copper epoxy. Its relatively simple to level using the three adjustments and the “bubble in a circle” along with the longitudinal bubble in the top.
We have positioned it just forward of the number 5 frame so it can see all of the water line marks.
Please note that in this case the frame markings are only on one side, and as each frame is reversed for this port hull, so they need to be transposed around each frame. Bob seems to have done this on the number 5 while we weren’t looking during our set up of the starboard hull in Nov 2003 however we now needed to do the other four.
Once leveled one can very simply see the vertical inaccuracies and all that is required is to find/make and fit small pieces of MDF, PLY, timber or whatever under the base of each frame to have the laser designate each mark.
Now we can place the first bilge panel
…and the second, checking carefully that they are positioned forward and aft correctly particularly at the bow so it looks at least a bit like the other hull.
This image shows why one should check measurements twice before acting.
The Scrumble Project 